Messner autobiography (3)

Heaven, Hell and Himalayas

Until 1969, I was a blind fanatic climber and climbed all summer. I do mountain guides to feed myself and occasionally go to lectures, but all my spare time is spent on training, climbing and rock climbing. The news that the German team climbed Nanga Parbat in 1968, such as Pel-Ibi, for the first time inspired me to challenge the 8000-meter peak. In 1969, I successfully climbed the three peaks of the Eastern Alps along the most difficult route in the blizzard; I also climbed alone to the most difficult cliff in the Western Alps - the Alps have been to me It's too small for me to show my skill. As an inexperienced, impatient young man, with the exception of natural curiosity, I have to go to the summit of the 8000-meter class with only one purpose: to see how high I can ascend and try my limit. At that time, the Pel-Ibi route of Nanga Parbat was my first choice to march to the 8000-meter peak. But I don't know if I can go. Who will take me? In the spring of 1969, a small Andean mountaineering team invited me to join the group; but it was because someone temporarily retreated; the possibility of going to the 8000-meter peak was too small for me at that time. This is not only because I have no financial protection, but also because I signed a one-year contract with a French advertising company – my time was taken up. That year's income was not enough to pay for this mountaineering fee. In order to accumulate funds, I had to work more.

Fortunately, some mountaineers rely on advertising sponsorship to achieve the mountaineering dream. Vatel Bonatti, a senior in the mountaineering community, provided me with this experience. According to his instructions, I finally got the first advertising sponsorship. The mountaineer also gave me his last book "The Great Day" on mountaineering, and on the title page: "To Ley Hodder Messner - the last descendant of the great tradition of mountaineering. "These encouragements have increased my self-confidence. Being a South Tairuolin person is no more important than obtaining spiritual support. Learning from predecessors like Bonati is an important lesson for our young mountaineers.

At that time, the Himalayas was a dream to me and a paradise for climbing. In the fall of 1969, I received a surprise from a German mountaineering team from the South Wall route to Nanga Parbat. That action was called Sigi. The only regret is that my brother's Genshe cannot walk with me. Later, because two players withdrew from the team, Genshe had the opportunity to become a player.

It was a huge German-Austrian joint climbing expedition. The entire operation lasted for 40 days from May to July in 1970. Genshe and I always walked in front of the team on the way and never arrived before the first arrival. Mick cracks. However, the threat of bad weather and avalanches forced us back to base camp on several occasions. Once the root camp and I opened the road in the snow for a week. In this case, we estimate that it will be difficult to escape the fate of not being able to reach the top. After a long discussion of the entire team, we decided that Gensan and I will return to the highest camp that has been set up and make the final impact on the summit. The other two camped at 7,400 meters. On July 27, Genshe and I assaulted the summit successfully. We ascend to Nanga Parbat Peak from Pelwall, the tallest ice and rock mixture in the world. On the last section of the road before the summit, we were exhausted, but we were ready for a fight. Our youthful vigor and passion for climbing made us surpass our physical limits.

After the summit, my younger brother was depleted of his physical strength and there was an early alpine reaction. He did not have the strength to take a step. It was not only irresponsible but also impossible to take down the original road and the roots along Pelbi. . We have no ropes to protect, and in the steep downward journey we are doomed to slip. As clouds approached the evening, the more clouds in the sky grew, I decided to descend from the Western Wall into the valley above the Moke crack. This was a hasty decision. I was thinking of camping in the valley at night and returning from there the next morning. To Peerbi and hope to meet up there to help our team members. That night was long and terrible. At an altitude of 8000 meters, we have no camping equipment, no down coats, no oxygen, no food and no water. The physical and psychological state of our night was greatly damaged.

In the early morning of the next morning, I saw clearly where we were - on the upside down, out of the ground, away from the base camp! We waited until 10 o'clock to see no rescuers. This forced us to face the fact that the two players at 7400 meters did not come up to cope but went assault on their own. In desperation, we began to withdraw from the Damir side of Nanga Parbat. At this time I was almost irrational, and my spirit almost departed from my body. Once I fell and fell to the mountain, it made me woke up - I must take my younger brother down the hill.

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